Dos Ojos

D.18.13
35 kilometros
Back to the hostel for breakfast at eight. Feeling hostile to the people I'm surrounded by. Couples. Boys who only speak to skinny girls. Decide to get out and get pedaling, even after staring at the maps which are inconclusive about where the cenotes Dos Ojos are, but all promise it is no mas que 14 kilometros. Get set and hit the road- or the twisty sidewalk path- at a breakneck, excited pace. The fun sidewalk ends after the entrance to the ruins and then all there is to ride on is a wild and hectic highway's shoulder. I stop for a moment and reconsider this crazy plan. Only 12 kilometres to go, I say to myself, I can do this. Praying for no flat tires, I get there two hours later. Beach cruisers with kickback brakes are not made to cover distance! It was not as flat as a chalkboard! And did I really NOT think to bring water? I would get better at this as I went, surely. 
I rest in the parking lot, then pay what I feel is a lot at 150pesos, and ride the last two and a half kms down Lovely Road. I get into the water with my snorkel, all salty and greasy- sorry delicate environment. Little black fish are following me around and licking me and I'm calm, floating, and relaxed- but keep getting tickled by these one inch three inch SIX INCH little fuckers. I have a sad moment that I dicked my little new fancycam on the booze cruise days ago as the sunlight beams into the water, straight through the clear blue to the bottom- and something dings me in the head! What was that!? I jump and spin and panic a little, but then remember. Oh yea, bats live in the ceiling, I really did just get shit on by a bat. Some people are laughing who saw it happen from across the cave. Shitsplash. I see the crap in the water next to me and have to laugh. No more feeling sorry. Lucky me.
The cenotes are incredible. The darkness of the caves below are frighteningly black but I tough it out, spacing and counting out my deep soothing breaths. Refreshed and cooled, I rest, then pedal on out. I decided to try the dusty orange roads that ran alongside the highway, through the villages on my way back to town. Best idea ever. Greeted by smiling faces, and children playing. Chased for one terrifying minute by a pack of black Xolotl, pointy faced dogs nipping at my ankles, then surrounded further on by butterflies, blue winged and yellow they land on my head for a salt lick and I'm feeling special.

Lovely Road

Beautifulll East Eye

This map ONLY makes sense in hindsight. It's the one they gave me at the gate, on the back of my ticket. This one is three times the size of that one and full colour.

Post-swim selfee while the sun was shining in!

Out again down shade spackled roads.

In hindsight, I wish I'd paid the extra $25 to dive the cave system. I had no idea what it would be like and this first taste of cool fresh mystery caverns hooked me in. I decided to make visiting the cenotes the priority of this part of my trip. I made a plan to cycle up the middle of the Yucatan, and swim in as many as I could.